Producer spotlight: Tom Lubbe
The New Zealand-born winemaker who does it out of love
In the early days of Jack and I, I asked him, “what one brand (clothing/technology/consumable/whatever) has made an impression on you for its words and why?”
For context, I was putting together some lo-fi market research for a brand I was working for at the time.
Jack’s reply: Matassa.
I’d never heard of Matassa (an old Catalan word for thicket) at the time but as I might’ve expected from Jack, it’s a wine brand. Or rather, it’s the name of a domaine.
In answer to why, Jack explained:
“there’s something about Matassa, that always jumps out on a shelf. Possibly the very simply white background and it’s that little ‘t’ just popping its head up above the rest of the letters that catches the eye. Also very tasty wines which probably helps!”
A couple of weeks later, Jack bought two tickets to a testing session with Tom Lubbe, founder of Matassa. The event was titled Organic Matter — a life long quest for soil (& human) health.
To clue up (and slightly impress Jack), I listened to a podcast with Tom before the tasting. Listening to it, my first impressions of Tom were that he was slightly cantankerous and he didn’t shy away from swearing. But I could also hear how much he loved making wine.
And not just the bottling and selling of it but really going into the roots of his vineyards and their soils, being forensic about the health of the land to make wines that are not only better for the planet but for the people who drink them too.
At the event, there were eight of us around one big table. In the middle were bottles of water, small plates of cheese, saucisson and bread and butter to snack on alongside the wine. Looking artfully dishevelled in a linen shirt and shorts, Tom stood at the head of the table and for an hour he just talked.
As a bit of background, Tom is originally from New Zealand. He started making wine in South Africa, working at the only estate in South Africa (Welgemeend) that used indigenous yeasts and lower yields. In the late 90’s Tom travelled to Roussillon and interned at Domaine Gauby for several years in a quest to learn more about Mediterranean varieties and climate. During this time, Tom met his wife, who just so happens to be Gauby’s sister and together they started Matassa in 2003.
Fast forward today, Tom and Nathalie are considered pioneers of the natural wine movement. They farm 20 hectares of different white and red varieties scattered in various vineyards around the village of Calce and Espira-de-l’Agly, in the foothills of the Pyrenees.
All the vineyards are worked naturally without any chemical aid. Whites are whole bunch basket pressed, and reds are whole-bunch fermented and pumped down once in the beginning to release the grapes’ juice and kick start the spontaneous fermentation.
At the event, Tom spoke about the importance of soil health, his winemaking neighbours in the Roussillon, a boring wine vs. a simple wine, navigating French agriculture certifications and of course, his wines. Throughout the evening we tried five wines. I can’t now remember all of them but one sticks out in my mind particularly; Blossom.
It’s made from 100% whole bunch Muscat with a little bit of maceration. As the cuvée name suggests, it’s floral with orange blossom, chamomile and honey. Even as the last wine in the lineup, I remember its ambrosial flavour and slightly nutty finish. It really made an impression and so did Tom’s attitude to making wine.
So, if you see a Matassa label with its “little ‘t’ just popping its head up above the rest of the letters”, buy it, try it and I promise you won’t be disappointed.
A couple of highlights from the last week at Joyau and beyond
Endless love for Gaetan’s Potato & Crème Fraîche Pie. Like Dauphinois wrapped in pastry but better.
Our lovely friends Becky & Huw at Paynter very kindly gave Joyau a mention in their wonderful newsletter.
This pasta salad (and many variations of it) has been fuelling us through shifts.
A surprise visit from my uncle and cousin on Thursday, followed by another unexpected appearance from my auntie on Saturday. There’s nothing better than a familiar face walking through the door.
I really enjoyed listening to this episode of Influence with Damian Bradfield and Dan Keeling. The co-founder of the Noble Rot restaurants and witty, boisterous magazine of the same name, Dan talks about how being enthusiastic and vocal about wine is no bad thing.
Love the Auntie shout out !!!! Auntie Jo xxx
"artfully dishevelled". Mwwwah!